Sunday, April 4, 2010

Chartres Day Two, Part Two

I only hung out in my room for about an hour, before heading back out again on the long walk to find the Maison Picassiette, which is the second biggest site in Chartres. I didn't realise how far it was, though. I walked, and walked, and finally found a sign, and walked some more. When I checked my map, I realised that it would be faster to cut through a cemetery that's just nearby. It turned out to be several city blocks wide, though, I swear, so it was more walking until I finally came out exactly where I needed to be!

The Maison Picassiette (or Picassiette House) used to be where Raymond Isidore and his wife lived in the early to mid-1900s. He was a basic manual worker, but some passion, insanity, or inspiration drove him to cover his entire house in paintings and gorgeously complicated mosaics made from crockery, bits of glass, and other random things like shells. They don't allow pictures (which seems stupid to me; what are they protecting? They don't have a gift shop or anything), but I sneaked a couple anyway. The amazing thing is that you don't expect every single thing to be a mosaic, but it is. The sewing machine, the stove, the walls, floors, flowerpots, *everything*. A lot of it is depictions of Biblical stuff and Christian iconography, and there are also world monuments, and a whole area full of designs and models of the various sites in Chartres (he seemed particularly preoccupied with the cathedral, which he apparently visited every year on his birthday). They had a couple of records written by his wife, along with pictures and the basic history, and she said that he basically just always wanted to live surrounded by beauty and couldn't imagine why people wouldn't, and so he made that beauty himself.

The house is pretty small, and doesn't take long to circuit through, so I was done quickly and headed back to town. I went through the cemetery again on my way, and this time wandered through at leisure and took some pretty pictures. People think it's weird, but I do love cemeteries; they're peaceful, and beautiful.

When I got back to the town center, I was dog-tired and my feet were killing me from all the walking, so I went back to my hotel for a nap. That evening, I ended up deciding that between the fact that it was raining, how full I still was from lunch, and the little bit of food I had left over from my lunch on the train the previous day, I would just stay in for dinner and not worry about it. I set my alarm (properly this time) and went to bed.

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